On Quality and Maturation in Winemaking
By Doug Reichel
Perhaps South Africa’s authoritative wine guide, John Platter South African Wines 2004, says it best about Rozendal wine: “An authentic ‘cult’ wine (all the more remarkable for the winemaker’s belief that he succeeded possibly because he ‘knew too little’), it’s still considered one of the finest Cape wines of the modern era. Kurt A has fulfilled his vision of making wine ‘as naturally as possible.’”
Two of the hallmarks of the Rozendal’s St. Emillon/ Pommerol Bordeaux style blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc blend are the almost mystical balance and its incredible capacity to cellar without big alcohol and additives.
Authentic Quality
Balance in red wine is about the fruit, tannins and acidity in harmony. To Kurt, harmony is not just a component descriptor, it’s a philosophy of life. Only healthy fruit can produce quality fruit and health is more than chemicals in balance. Seeking harmony for every facet of life on the Rozendal Farm is seen in their bio-dynamic philosophy that ‘feeds’ the farm and everything associated with it. Kurt recounts how he was jolted into thinking more holistically. A certain toxic chemical supplied by a U.S. company that was used for spraying the vines became unavailable in 1990 in South Africa due chemical warfare stockpiling on the eve of the first Gulf War. Kurt was sobered by the fact that the chemicals being used to potentially specifically kill people were the same ones being used on the vines and seeping into the soil and water table and it was only a matter of time before his family and farm would be toxin saturated and poisoned. ”The toxic nature of these chemicals was only a matter of concentration, nothing else,” Kurt recalls. Rozendal Farm (located on the edge of South Africa?s largest natural reserve) has been completely chemical-free since 1991. They have encouraged whole farm natural eco-systems, complete with no artificial irrigation, and at a very human level have intentionally fostered racial and relational harmony among the staff. One visitor, overcome by the tranquility labelled Rozendal Farm, ‘Planet Rozendal!’ The ripple effects move into the wine making: With such clean land and water feeding the vines, added yeast and subsequent fining used to clear the accumulated dead yeast cells are unnecessary.
It is the absolute quality of the fruit on the Rozendal vines that allows for the tremendous balance of fruit, tannins and acidity/alkalinity. Amman believes and oft says, “quality is the estimate of value that is always an individual experience.” He believes that only nature can produce quality and that quality by its very nature cannot be static or constant and therefore cannot finally be manipulated by the winemaker. So he deduces that when winemakers or marketers speak of ‘consistent quality’ they are, in fact, referring to consistent mediocrity or ‘average’, a standard that can be manipulated and controlled and then marketed as ‘quality.’ “Sadly,” says Kurt, “people who now train in winemaking and winemaking techniques no longer learn about making good wine, they learn how to avoid making bad wine.” The standard is lowered but the marketing is heightened because advertising can influence our palates. Kurt observes, “It seems easier to find good wine that is expensive, than expensive wine that is good.”
Maturing vs. Aging
On Kurt’s first visit to Saskatchewan we noted the newly arrived Rozendal 2001 in the specialty section of a government liquor store. It became clear that Rozendal was a bit of an anomaly among the ‘big’ reds parked on either side. The average alcohol percentages ranged from 14-15.5% alc./vol. with Rozendal 2001 at only 12%. Amman notes that at 16% alc./vol. all developmental activity in the wine ceases. Here he comes back to grape quality: if you start with optimum quality fruit you need fewer manipulative techniques evidenced in excessive alcohol levels and sulfur additives to preserve. It is here that Kurt makes a point he often repeats: ”Aging and maturing of wines are not the same. We want our wines to mature; aging is about sterile preservation. You can keep a body part or animal in pure alcohol for a very long time. Growing old and growing up are not the same. This is true with wine as well as humans.” Kurt talks about how our palates have been overwhelmed, even ‘numbed’ by the big alcohol-laden wines. Having been formally trained in European culinary ways and having operated one of Johannesburg’s top restaurants prior to moving into the Stellenbosch wine world, Kurt understands the palate. One wonders how many big reds have wowed us by effectively pickling sub-standard fruit in copious amounts alcohol. In contrast, each Rozendal wine (you pick the vintage) has all the delicate fruit flavours and balance, the gentle finesse that seem to mark prominent Bordeaux wines, without excessive alcohol or sulphur reinforcement. There is not a Rozendal vintage that we know of since that first catapulting 1983 vintage (with only 11% alc./vol.) that is not still drinking from well to outstanding.
Rozendal wine is true terroir wine, and given the health of the Rozendal Farm terroir it should not be surprising that the Rozendal wine has such maturing potential. Amman refuses to make hard and fast predictions about best drinking time because authentic maturing is outside the winemaker’s control, the wine is ‘alive’ and evolving and defies predictions. They will not release the wines before they can be enjoyed when purchased, and so the 2001 vintage is the latest to be released. He does say that the 2001 will probably be at optimum drinking in 7-14 years. Amazing, because it’s so enjoyable now.