Wine Advocate Rating: 94

The “two star” 2006 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese essentially represents a Beerenauslese picked without selection, straight off the vines in a single parcel. The smoky cast always typical for this site is reinforced by botrytis, so that one receives one of the most pungent, almost eye-watering vinous messages imaginable. Imagine tropical fruits, melons, citrus, and honey mingled with white raisins and Szechuan peppercorns. Drippingly rich and honeyed, yet with firm underlying mineral and blazing citrus character and free of superficial sweetness, this is a marvel of cleanliness, clarity and focus (as well as pale color) when one considers the condition of the harvest. The energetic magnetic fields of this wine do not need time to align themselves: there is harmony, thrust, and electric finishing intensity. Even so, it would be a shame to open more than a bottle or two over the coming decade. Leave this for 2020-30 and beyond!